Various Itchy Skin Problems

Flea Control Tips

The best approach to controlling fleas on your pet is to start with the least toxic and most natural choices, resorting to stronger measures only if reasonable control is not achieved. As a prerequisite to any flea-control program, I would recommend building up your animal's health and resistance as much as possible through a healthy lifestyle and diet. Along with that, it is important to practice thorough sanitation and cleaning.

It is important to understand the life cycle of the flea which is why cleaning is so important. Adult fleas can live about 3 to 4 months. During that time, they will be steadily laying tiny white eggs on your pet that will look like dandruff or salt crystals. Flea eggs hatch out into larvae that live in the cracks and crevices of rugs, upholstery, blankets, floors, sand, earth, and the like.

The bad news is that, no matter how many adult fleas you manage to kill, numerous future fleas are developing in the environment simultaneously. The good news is that these eggs, larvae, pupa, and the flea dirt they feed upon can be sucked up by a vacuum cleaner or washed away in the laundry. And because the developing fleas are so immobile, they are most concentrated wherever your pet sleeps, so you know where to focus your efforts.

Your important ally in the battle against fleas is cleanliness, both for your pet and your home, particularly in your pet's sleeping areas. Regular cleaning interrupts the life cycles of the fleas and greatly cuts down on the number of adult fleas that end up on your pet, especially if you act before flea season begins.

So start your program with these nontoxic steps.

1. Steam clean your carpets at the onset of flea season (or whenever you begin your flea-control program). Though it is somewhat expensive, steam cleaning is effective in killing flea eggs.

2. Thoroughly vacuum and clean floors and furniture at least once a week to pick up flea eggs, larvae, and pupae. Concentrate on areas where your pet sleeps and use an attachment to reach into crevices and corners and under heavy furniture. If there is a heavy infestation, you may want to put a flea collar (or part of a flea collar) in the vacuum bag to kill any adult fleas that get sucked up and might crawl away. Or else immediately dispose of the bag or its contents because it can provide a warm, moist, food-filled environment for developing eggs and larvae. Mop vinyl floors.

3. Launder your pet's bedding in hot, soapy water at least once a week. Dry on maximum heat. Heat will kill all stages of flea life, including the eggs. Remember that flea eggs are very slippery and easily fall off bedding or blankets. So carefully roll bedclothes up to keep all the flea eggs contained on the way to the washing machine.

4. Bathe the animal with a natural flea-control shampoo. Use a nontoxic shampoo as recommended above, such as one containing d-limonene (dogs only).

5. Use a flea comb to trap and kill fleas that are on your pet. Most pet stores carry special fine-toothed combs that trap fleas for easy disposal. Make a regular habit of flea-combing your pet while you watch TV or talk on the phone. Depending on the degree of infestation and the time of year, this might be daily (at the onset of the flea season), weekly, or monthly.

Gently but thoroughly comb as many areas as your pet will allow, especially around the head, neck, back, and hindquarters. As you trap the little buggers, pull them off the comb and plunge them into a container of hot, soapy water (or dip the comb and pull the flea off underwater). Cover your lap with an old towel to catch extra clumps of hair and flea dirt and to wipe the comb off as you work.

When you're finished, flush the soapy water and fleas down the toilet.

Other Skin Issues

Many dogs today suffer from itchy skin caused by a variety of factors. Dogs actually have more sensitive skin than humans, and are often exposed to a variety of irritants in their environment. These grooming tips may help alleviate your dog's constant itching.

Brushing your dog daily will remove pollens, grasses, and other outdoor irritants as well as stimulating the skin's circulation and preventing matting. Brush carefully and down to the skin, taking care not to tug on tangles, and using a soft bristle brush on sensitive areas.

Bathing should also be done on a monthly basis, following a thorough brushing. Use a natural, low lather, low irritant shampoo, wet your dog down thoroughly with lukewarm water, and apply the shampoo using your hands. Avoid getting water or shampoo in his eyes and ears, and lather all over, right down to his skin, then rinse thoroughly. Shampoo residue is a major cause of skin irritation for dogs. After rinsing, towel dry your dog, and avoid using any coat finishers or blow dryers, which can also cause skin irritation in a sensitive dog.

Grooming is essential for a dog's skin health, helps you identify skin problems early on, and is a great way for you to bond with your dog as well!

Did you know that Dogs can Get Sunburned?

In the bright and beautiful days of summer, it’s common to see dogs frolicking at the beach, riding on boats, and hiking the trails with their sun loving owners. Yet, not all dog owners realize that their pets, just like people, need protection from the ultraviolet rays.

Mostly the ears, nose, and belly areas are vulnerable but any area can burn, especially on thin haired dogs or dogs with light coat coloring. Some breeds such as Chihuahuas love to sunbathe and they don’t know when they’ve had enough.

Dogs love to join the family at fairs and festivals or on the beach but exposure to sunlight reflecting off concrete pavement or beach sand can lead to sunburn on the belly area.

Sunburn produces redness of skin and may be first noticed on the bridge of the nose, tips of the ears, on the abdomen, any place that hair parts, or any area where hair is sparse. Dogs do not burn as easily as humans do so by the time sunburn is evident, there may be quite a bit of damage.